Sunday Tasmanian (26-April-2009)



Village Collects History

WESTBURY isn’t the first place forced to deal with a geographical hazard. This one is however a little unusual.

When esteemed historian Geoffrey Blainey wrote of Australia’s “tyranny of distance” he was referring in part to the watery chasm between Australia and the rest of the world. Charming Westbury suffers the tyranny of proximity.

From Launceston it is just a 30-minute drive west, naturally, to Westbury. For those departing Launceston for Deloraine, Mole Creek, Cradle, and elsewhere, the turn off to Westbury from the A1 arrives before you’ve had time to find the rhythm of the road or heard a CD spin its way to a favourite song. You’re not ready to chance a detour yet. The boredom of the all-too efficient highway hasn’t forced you to flick on the left indicator. But give Westbury a chance. An afternoon flirtation with this village could turn easily into an overnight assignation.

Hobnobs

The menu at Peter and Doreen Wileman’s restaurant changes weekly. Peter’s CV includes being the head chef for 3500 people at an America’s Cup ball in Perth yet, wonderfully, the Wileman’s don’t trade on reputation. The menu reinvention is designed to keep enticing the locals back.

During my visit, menu number 250, I had the fresh home-made duck fettuccine with generous chunks of dill preserved salmon (entree $14.50). If I hadn’t chewed the pasta it would have eventually slid down my throat for it was as supple as a freshly shucked oyster. For main it was kassler (smoked pork) which consisted of four fillets, roasted beetroot and fresh beans from the vegie garden and apple rich sauerkraut ($35.50). The couple at a table near me were celebrating their anniversary. I listened hopefully on the chance I might overhear some whispered sweet-nothings. For the most part all I got was them exchanging superlatives about their meals.

The food, Doreen’s professional front of house service, the fireplaces and the vodka martinis almost certainly make this one of the best winter eateries in Tassie. But there is also a garden for al fresco dining in the warmer months. Hobnobs is open from Thursday to Sunday. It’s open only in the evenings except on Sunday when it is also open for lunch and afternoon teas (hobnobs.com.au).









Village collections.

Westbury could easily become known as the Village of Collectors. Andy Muirhead, compere of the ABC’s Collectors could just about do an entire series of shows from Westbury. There are collections of steam machinery, early tractors, toys, bicycles and motor cars. These haven’t been hurriedly cobbled together. In many cases generations of families have added to that first acquired by their forebears. Westbury has its own stately White House, owned by the Clemons family since the 1960s. The furniture collection consists of English oak pieces from the 17th and 18th centuries. One piece, an oak chair, is circa 1640.

The furniture collection is significant enough that students from the Australian School of Fine Furniture have visited to study it.

In the White House garage there are veteran cars and horsedrawn vehicles. The vehicles include an 1899 Locomobile steam car and a 1928 Model T Ford. There are cars from France, US, England and a rare 1900 Australian-made car.

It is quite incredible that all of this has been assembled in unheralded Westbury. Entry costs $7 for adults. Entry is free for children up to 16. Entry for seniors costs $5. The White House is open every day from l0am to 4pm except Mondays. It is closed in July and August. (whitehousetasmania.com).

Lose yourself at Westbury

GIL and Diana Stokes saw the light and moved from Western Australia to Tasmania five years ago. Their Elm Wood Classic B&B opposite the Westbury Village Green consists of three suites and a private cottage.

Rooms from $165 per couple per night include breakfast (elmwood.com.au). Leave your map of the town and the car keys in your Elmwood room. If you get lost in Westbury so much the better. It’ll be a good excuse to strike up conversation with one of the locals.

Hadspen is even closer to Launceston than Westbury. Those interested in art and history will find the Red Feather Inn an extraordinary boutique hotel. The makeover that has been completed here, turning a coaching inn, a handsome Georgian, to a hotel while retaining much of its original architectural charm makes this place as much a work of art as a place to stay. Owner Lydia Nettlefold’s eye for detail is so keen that the French provincial furniture seems a perfect complement to the National Trust approved remodelling. A staggeringly beautiful place (There are two suites and three rooms here. Rooms from $245 per couple per night for a two night stay. The rate includes a bottle of wine, provedore platter and breakfast provisions (redfeatherinn.com.au).

Westbury was laid out in 1823. The Village Green remains a feature of the town. Get yakking to the locals and they’ll proudly tell you their town should be considered much like those vaunted colonials Ross and Richmond.

GREG CLARKE Watch out for the second TV series of Discover Tasmania now showing on Southern Cross, Thursday nights at 7.30pm